Some time in the mid 1980s I was invited to judge at a blind tasting of chocolate, one of the first ever. Such luminaries as Josceline Dimbleby and Paul Levy were there. So was Chantal Coady, one of a passionate new breed of chocolutionaries; she and her shop Rococo were challenging food writers to think more seriously about chocolate. Most of us knew only that there were ‘eating’ and ‘cooking’ chocolates, thinking the latter less good because they were less sweet. A sophisticated few knew Chocolate Menier was the proper one to use for chocolate cakes or petits pots au chocolat. Most felt safer using Cadbury Bournville and no one noticed. They would now, I bet.